The attempts on Himalayan peaks Tawoche and Menlungtse are the foundation of this book. What? Not Everest, or at least K2? Been there and done that. With John, it is the Route, the Complexity, and the Satisfaction of Solving the Problem. His writing is so clear, he can write of very technical maneuvers and be interesting. But this book is more than just a recapitulation of the climb. He has strong opinions on many facets of the sport and the people who take part. He strongly favors alpine style climbing, which is basically climbing light (small team, little equipment as possible and minimal "porter" help). The large "expedition" style (think 1996 Everest) does not win many points with the author. He is at his strongest when he writes of the interaction between teammates on the climb; he puts a human face on the endeavor like no other mountaineering author I have read.

Just when I have about given up on mean, tough John Roskelley, he writes a passage of such grace, I have to do an instant re-evaluation:
---" Tibet has a beauty all its own. It isn't found in a single rock or within a village or even along a meandering creek, no more than a single brush stroke in a Renoir captures the mood of the painting. No. Tibet's beauty, its inner soul, is in the depth and breadth of a distant horizon, the magnificence of time and space, of peaks and valleys and plains that never seem to end. When I look out upon Tibet's endless views, I dream of riding a horse into the distant hills forever and never coming back."-

Highly recommended.